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竹溪蒸盆：蒸制名菜带富一方百姓

Zhuxi Steamed Pot: Steamed Cuisine Brings Wealth to Locals

极目新闻记者 关前裕

通讯员 郭军

译者 黄之逸 曾高欣 吴华珊 （湖北大学）

JIMU News Reporter: Qianyu Guan

Correspondent: Jun Guo

Translators：Zhiyi Huang Gaoxin Zeng Huashan Wu (Hubei University)

秦巴山区，十堰竹溪。作为南水北调的重要水源涵养区，这里82.6%的土地被森林覆盖，有记录的本地中草药比《本草纲目》多1000多个品种，被誉为百草之乡。

Zhuxi, Shiyan, located in the Qinba Mountains, is an important water conservation area of the South-to-North Water Diversion Project. Around 82.6% of the land here is covered by woods, and there are over 1,000 more varieties of recorded local Chinese herbal medicine than the Compendium of Materia Medica, hence it is known as “the home of herbs”.

就是这样一个物种富集之地，孕育出一道有着千余年历史的美食——竹溪蒸盆。作为湖北老字号、省级非物质文化遗产，竹溪蒸盆曾被中国烹饪大师戴涛带到中国南极中山站，作为南极站2016年春节年夜饭介绍给全球华人。

This place, which is rich in species, has bred a delicacy with a history of more than a thousand years — Zhuxi steamed pot. As a time-honored brand in Hubei province and a provincial intangible cultural heritage, Zhuxi steamed pot was once brought to the Antarctic Zhongshan Station by a Chinese cooking master Tao Dai, and introduced at the 2016 Chinese New Year’s Eve dinner at the Antarctic Station to global Chinese compatriots.

以往，物质不富裕，竹溪蒸盆包含18种食材，象征着十八般武艺样样精通，蒸制五六个小时。

In the past, due to the lack of materials, the Zhuxi steamed pot which took five or six hours to make contained 18 ingredients, a symbol of proficiency in all eighteen martial arts.

如今，社会进步了，竹溪蒸盆所包含的食材在增加，加工工艺在优化，经“两蒸一焖”，两三个小时就可以吃了。而且北上广杭等地已经开办“竹溪蒸盆”旗舰店，云端销售竹溪蒸盆，带富一方百姓。

Now, thanks to social progress, Zhuxi steamed pot contains more ingredients, and its processing technology has been optimized. After “being steamed twice and stewed once”, it is ready to serve in two or three hours. In addition, Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Hangzhou and other cities have opened “Zhuxi steamed pot” flagship stores, which sell Zhuxi steamed pot online.

竹溪蒸盆是桌上的主菜Zhuxi Steamed pot served as the main course

招待贵客的大菜

A delicacy for distinguished guests

农历二月初三，晨光初露，竹溪县龙坝镇红庙村村民李明学，就在厨房里忙活起来。这天他家“请春客”。

In the early morning of the third day of the second lunar month, Mingxue Li, a local of Hongmiao Village, Longba Town, Zhuxi County, was busy in the kitchen. That day, his family was entertaining guests “in spring”.

伴随着柴火燃烧的噼啪声，他把洗好的腊蹄、土鸡肉、竹笋干、香菇、天麻、大葱、姜块、干红椒、花椒等装进陶盆。待大火蒸一个半小时后，再加土豆、红萝卜、黄瓜、鸡蛋盒子，以文火蒸半小时。出锅前，加上青菜和蒜苗，焖上五分钟，大功告成。这就是制作竹溪蒸盆的工艺，人称“分批装料，两蒸一焖”。

With the crackling sound of the burning firewood, Li put all the ingredients into the pottery pot, including washed preserved pig trotters, chicken, dried bamboo shoots, mushrooms, green onions, ginger, dried red peppers, Sichuan peppers and so on. All the ingredients were steamed for one and a half hours, after which he added potatoes, carrots, cucumbers and eggs, and then simmered them for another half hour. Before it was done, bokchoy greens and garlic scapes were added and stewed for the last five minutes. This is the process of making Zhuxi steamed pot, which involves “adding ingredients in batches, and steaming twice and stewing once”.

外围金黄的鸡蛋盒子，宛如一片片花瓣，翠绿的菜叶、鲜红的枸杞，镶嵌其间，色彩分明。挑开表面，红的胡萝卜、黄的土豆，还有棕色的香菇、深红的腊肉，简直是为客人精心准备的艺术品。

This dish is surrounded by golden egg boxes, like flower petals, with emerald green leaves and bright red wolfberry on it, making it brightly-colored. Under this top layer, one can find red carrots, yellow potatoes, brown mushrooms, and dark red cured pork, a work of art carefully prepared for guests.

竹溪蒸盆宴，是竹溪民间宴请贵客的正规宴席，传统特色鲜明，讲究礼仪，尽显主人盛情。事先下请柬或登门邀请，客人到来时，主人门外远迎。一般设宴在堂屋正厅，用八仙桌、高背椅，主宾坐上席，身份地位接近的人作陪。

Zhuxi steamed pot banquet is a formal banquet for distinguished guests. With distinctive traditional characteristics and dining etiquette, it shows the hospitality of the host. The host sends out an invitation to invite the guests in advance. When the guests arrive, the host greets them outside the door. The banquet is generally held in a hall, with a square table and high back chairs. The principal guest sits above the salt, accompanied by people of similar status.

餐前上红茶、干果瓜子，养胃、开胃。餐中先上四道凉菜，喝门杯酒以示欢迎；再上头菜竹溪蒸盆，支客师吆喝，说祝福语，甚至敲锣打鼓、燃放鞭炮、唱山二黄戏，以示隆重热烈；然后上味碟小菜、炒菜和蒸菜，主客相互敬酒，最后再喝门杯酒、上主食。餐后上绿茶，消食去腻。

Black tea, dried fruits and melon seeds are served before meals as appetizers. Four cold dishes are served during the meal, and the host needs to drink a glass of wine to show hospitality. Then, the first dish Zhuxi steamed pot is served, after which the guest master needs to shout, offer blessings, and even beat gongs and drums, set off firecrackers, and sing mountain Erhuang operas to show grandeur and enthusiasm. Subsequently, side dishes, stir-fried dishes and steamed dishes are served, and the host and guest make a toast to each other. Finally, they drink a glass of wine and rice is served. Green tea is served after meals to help with digestion and wash down the greasy meal.

竹溪蒸盆，作为当地最具特色的美食之一，千余年来经久不衰。

Zhuxi steamed pot, one of the most distinctive local foods, has been popular for more than a thousand years.

“竹溪蒸盆，现在是湖北老字号、省非物质文化遗产，曾被中国烹饪大师戴涛带到中国南极中山站，还多次亮相央视，为竹溪赢得中国蒸盆之乡的美誉。”竹溪县文化和旅游局长喻泉源介绍。

“Zhuxi steamed pot, now a time-honored brand and intangible cultural heritage of Hubei province, was once brought to the Antarctic Zhongshan Station by Chinese culinary master Tao Dai. It has also appeared on CCTV numerous times, earning Zhuxi the reputation China‘s steamed pot capital.” Quanyuan Yu, the culture and tourism director in Zhuxi County, introduced.

厨师挑选精美的食材制作竹溪蒸盆Chefs select high-quality ingredients to make the dishes

民间传说的加持

The folklore about Zhuxi steamed pot

竹溪蒸盆是怎么发展来的呢？喻泉源告诉极目新闻记者，竹溪蒸盆与一段民间传说相关联。

Where did Zhuxi steamed pot originate? Quanyuan Yu told the reporter of JIMU News that Zhuxi steamed pot is associated with a local folklore.

相传，唐朝时期，薛刚在正月十五大闹花灯打死太子后，武则天下令将薛家满门抄斩，薛刚在武三思追杀下被逼与妻子于卧龙山含泪离别，独自一人逃至泗水关，投奔本家哥哥薛义。

According to legend, in the Tang Dynasty, since Gang Xue killed the prince at the Lantern Festival, Zetian Wu (the only female emperor in Chinese history) ordered Xue’s whole family be beheaded. Hunted down by Sansi Wu, Gang Xue was forced to part with his wife in tears on Wolong Mountain. He fled alone to the Sishui Pass and sought refuge with his brother Yi Xue.

薛义以前在贩卖私盐中被官府缉拿关在长安狱中，后被薛刚救出并安排他到泗水关任总兵，这次他逃过满门抄斩一劫，是因为薛义高价贿赂了太师张天左，将名册做了改动。

Yi Xue had earlier been arrested by the government and imprisoned in Chang’an for illegally selling salt. Later, he was rescued by Gang Xue and appointed to serve as the chief soldier at Sishui Pass. This time Gang Xue’s family escaped their fate of being beheaded because Yi Xue bribed Tianzuo Zhang, an imperial official, at a high price, to tamper with the list of wanted criminals.

话说薛刚到了泗水关城外，递上帖子，中军将帖子传给薛义后，薛义暗想：薛刚已被皇上下旨缉拿，我这时若藏他，岂不受拖累。便与夫人杨氏商量：“薛刚已到我们这里逃难来了，如果我们趁此机会把他抓起来解往长安，还可以官升三级，你我今后有享不尽的荣华富贵，捉住了他真是一两骨一两金，一两肉一两银呀。”

When Gang Xue arrived at Sishui Pass, he handed in his post which the army passed on to Yi Xue, who thought to himself: since the emperor has ordered his seizure, I will be implicated if I hide him now. He then discussed the matter with his wife Yang: “Gang Xue has come to us for shelter. If we take this opportunity to apprehend him and return him to Chang’an, I could be promoted to a higher position, and we will enjoy endless fame and fortune in the future. Capturing him equates gaining gold and silver.”

杨氏大怒：“亏你想得出来，弟弟把你从狱中救出来，又安排你任总兵，你不思图报，如今恩人有难，你还想落井下石，会遭天谴的。”

Yang was furious. “How can you think of doing something like that? Your brother saved you from prison and appointed you as chief soldier,” she said. “Instead of planning how to repay him you are planning to harm him further at a time when he is in great need. You will be condemned by heaven.”

薛义见杨氏这样说，知道明的不成，便假意说：“我哪有抓他的想法呀，是试一试你，是不是见财起意之人。”杨氏夫人这才转怒为喜。

Hearing these words, Yi Xue knew that his plan could not be carried out, thus falsely said, “I don’t really have plans of capturing him. I’m just testing you to see if you are one to be enticed by the prospect of earning money.” Yang’s anger turned to delight.

薛义说罢便去接薛刚，叫杨氏安排宴席为薛刚接风。到了晚上，薛刚坐在首席，左为薛义，右为杨氏。三人坐定后，杨氏便吩咐上菜。先是上的四大（四个用大瓷碗盛的凉菜有牛舌、猪舌、鸭舌、鸡舌）、六小（六个小碗盛的蒸菜有大酥、小酥、条子、红炖、圆子、蹄脚）、八宾盘（即八个炒菜），最后上的是一个大陶盆装的热气腾腾的蒸盆。杨氏口中念念有词：恩人明天满十八岁，我特地吩咐厨房做了这一道用十八种山中的好菜合在一起的汽水蒸盆。一是祝君有财不外流，有才不外露；二是愿你十八般武艺样样精通，不受别人欺负；三是你在落难之时，有十八罗汉保佑你。

After the conversation, Yi Xue went to pick up Gang Xue and asked Yang to prepare a banquet for Gang Xue. In the evening, Gang Xue sat at the head of the table, with Yi Xue on his left and Yang on his right. After they were seated, Yang ordered the food to be served. Firstly, “four big dishes” (four cold dishes in a large porcelain bowl: beef tongue, pork tongue, duck tongue and chicken tongue), “six small dishes” (six steamed dishes in small bowls: large crisp, small crisp, strips, red stew, round, hoof) and “eight guest plates” (eight fried dishes) were served. Finally, a steamed cuisine in a large clay pot was served. Yang murmured: “Our savior will turn 18 years old tomorrow, I specifically ordered the cook to make this steamed pot with 18 kinds of good ingredients from the mountains. Firstly, I wish you fortune and talent. Secondly, I wish you proficiency in the eighteen martial arts, and you are not be bullied by others. Thirdly, I wish you protection by the eighteen arhats in times of trouble.”

薛刚本是疲惫之躯，又无戒备之意，被忘恩负义的薛义用迷魂汤酒迷倒。薛义吩咐家丁将薛刚捆绑起来，要押往长安领赏，杨氏阻挡，被薛义一脚踢死。

Tired and unsuspecting, Gang Xue was knocked unconscious by his ungrateful brother using Mihuntang (a formulated mixture that induces drowsiness). Yi Xue ordered his servants bind Gang Xue and escort him to Chang’an to receive his reward. Yang tried to stop him but died after Yi Xue kicked her.

后来，竹溪山区的妇女为了纪念大仁大义的杨氏夫人，都仿效她做的蒸盆来招待尊贵的客人，并且世世代代传诵她的美德。

Later, in memory of righteous and benevolent Yang, women in the mountainous region of Zhuxi followed the example of Yang by making steamed pots to entertain distinguished guests and passing on her virtues to generations.

刚刚出锅色香味俱佳的竹溪蒸盆（通讯员供图）Fresh Zhuxi Steamed Pot has the perfect aroma, color and taste (Photo provided by the correspondent)

一个品牌的崛起

The Rise of a Brand

昨日，极目新闻记者走进位于武汉市楚汉路的旗舰店，门前“竹溪蒸盆”“非物质文化遗产”“随国家科考队走进南极的楚菜代表”等字样的灯牌格外醒目。

On Sunday, February 26th, a journalist from JIMU went to the flagship store at Chuhan Road, Wuhan, and found the light signs were extremely eye-catching with words like “Zhuxi Steamed pot”, “Intangible Cultural Heritage” and “Representative of Chu Cuisine in Antarctica in association with China Antarctic scientific expedition team”.

步入大厅，竹溪贡米、魔芋面、腐乳等产品陈列两侧，竹溪马鹿山云海的巨幅海报悬挂于正厅上方，而后是餐饮区。

Stepping into the hall, foods like tribute rice of Zhuxi County, konjac noodles and pickled bean curd were displayed on both sides, and a huge poster of the sea of clouds in Malushan Mountain in Zhuxi County hung above the main hall, followed by the dining area.

“二十多年前，竹溪蒸盆仅为店里的一道菜品，而现在成为全店爆款。”竹溪蒸盆汉街旗舰店负责人陈华文介绍，从正月十一营业至今，每天都是满座，大家都是冲着竹溪蒸盆而来。

According to Huawen Chen, the manager of this store, the dish was just a regular dish twenty years ago, but has since become popular this year that floods of customers have been crowding into their store just to taste it since they reopened after the Spring Festival holiday.

在众多食客中，有两位七旬老人专程来寻回忆，想再次尝到当年在竹溪工作时的美食。老人那句“就是这个味”，让陈华文印象深刻。

Among the numerous customers, there were two 70-year-old seniors, who used to work in Zhuxi County, coming all the way to savor the cuisine again and relive memories. Chen was impressed and touched by their complimentary remarks.

“本店共两层，营业面积约800平方米。这里不仅是主推竹溪蒸盆的餐饮店，还是竹溪832消费扶贫网络平台农产品的销售窗口和体验中心。”陈华文计划将现有180余竹溪农副产品，增加至十堰范围内的300多种土特产，未来还准备再开一家分店。

“With a coverage of about 800 square meters, our two-story store not only sells Zhuxi Steamed pot but also serves as a sales window and an experience center for agricultural products on 832 online poverty alleviation platforms in Zhuxi.” said Chen, who wants to open a branch store, aiming to expand from more than 180 kinds of agricultural products in Zhuxi County to more than 300 kinds of agricultural products within the whole Shiyan City.

与此同时，竹溪蒸盆飞上“云端”。“今年网上订单特别多。”

At the same time, online orders of Zhuxi Steamed Pot have skyrocketed due to its popularity on the internet.

位于竹溪县秦巴电商产业园的竹溪蒸盆饮食文化中心，于2019年由湖北大卫投资有限公司成立，专门从事竹溪蒸盆美食的研究、改良和推广。

Located in the Qinba E-commerce Industrial Park of Zhuxi County, the Food and Culture Centre of Zhuxi Steamed pot was established in 2019 by Hubei David Investment Co., Ltd to specialize in the research, improvement and promotion of Zhuxi Steamed Pot.

湖北大卫投资有限公司副总经理高兵介绍，自去年腊月初八以来，线上共售出竹溪蒸盆5000余盆，并带动销售竹溪腊肉、笋干、香菇等特产大礼包3000余份，创收160多万元。

Since December 30th, 2022, there have been more than 5000 online orders of Zhuxi Steamed pot, which has also boosted more than 3000 gift packs of local products such as preserved pork, dried bamboo shoots and mushroom, bringing in over 16,000,000 RMB as total revenue, as introduced by Vice Manager Bing Gao in Hubei David Investment Co., Ltd.

竹溪蒸盆的品牌效益，带动农产品的畅销，也带来更多就业机会。“平时在家照顾小孩，有时间就到此务工，平均每天可煎制700多个蛋饺，能挣300多元。”家住电商产业园附近的村民肖春燕开心地说。

The brand effect of Zhuxi Steamed pot has promoted the sales of agricultural products and created more jobs. “Although caring for my child at home, I can work here when I have time. On average, I earn more than 300 RMB per day by making more than 700 egg dumplings.” said Chunyan Xiao cheerfully, a villager living near the E-commerce Industrial Park.

“去年培养了600多名制作竹溪蒸盆的厨师，今年将扩大至1000人。”竹溪县就业局相关负责人柏林介绍，劳动就业训练中心以“竹溪蒸盆”“竹溪风味”等本地菜肴为教学重点，着力培养具有地方特色的竹溪厨师。今年计划在北京、杭州、深圳等地新增3至5家旗舰店。力争到“十四五”末期，竹溪蒸盆的全国连锁店发展到200家以上，从业人员达到10000人以上，年营业收入达到5亿元。

According to Lin Bo, an employee in the Employment Bureau in Zhuxi County, compared to the 600 cooks last year, they will train 400 more chefs to cook Zhuxi Steamed pot this year. Bo said that the employee training center will train chefs with local distinctions by focusing on local cuisine such as “Zhuxi Steamed pot” and “the unique flavor of Zhuxi”. Within 2023, about three to five flagship stores will be set up in cities like Beijing, Hangzhou and Shenzhen. Ultimately, the plan is to set up more than 200 national chain stores and employ more than 10,000 people to reach an annual operating revenue of 500,000,000 RMB by the end of the 14th Five-Year Plan.

（来源：极目新闻）

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